These vines were planted around the time Chile was fighting for its independence — roughly 200 years old, scattered across four small granite parcels up in the Nahuelbuta mountains, growing in among pine and eucalyptus trees. Roberto Henriquez farms them organically and calls this his most mineral País, which makes sense: granite tends to give sharper, more tightly drawn wine than the softer alluvial sites down near the river. It is a light red, because País is always a light red, but it is not a simple one. Subtle, sharp and complex is how he describes it, and that is about right. Pull it from the fridge fifteen minutes before you pour, and give it room to stretch out.