Roberto Henriquez is one of the leading voices in Chile's heritage-grape revival — a young natural winemaker working out of the Bio-Bio and Itata Valleys to rescue old-vine parcels of Pais, Semillon, Moscatel, and other heritage varieties that had been written off by the industrial wine machine. "Molino del Ciego" (the blind mill) is named for an abandoned mill near his vineyards, and the wine is a low-intervention, old-vine skin-contact white made primarily from 90-year-old Semillon vines in Itata, that captures everything that makes Henriquez's project compelling: textural, savory, slightly wild, and unmistakably a product of place.