Remelluri's Lindes project is a deliberate departure from old-school Rioja, where wines were named for how long they aged in barrel rather than where the grapes grew. Inspired by Burgundian thinking, the Lindes cuvées are single-village wines that finally let the terroir do the talking — something Rioja's DOCa rules only recently allowed. This bottling comes from Salinillas de Buradón, one of Rioja Alavesa's smaller, less-famous villages, where high elevation and rocky soils deliver the leaner, more chiseled style this side of the appellation is known for. The Rodríguez family has been a guiding force here since 1967, and they bottled the appellation's first single-vineyard wine in 1971 — so when they point you toward a tiny village, it's worth following.