Donovan Rall has been one of the reasons the wine world stopped condescending to South Africa. He started in 2008 with almost nothing, hunting down old bush-vine parcels across the Swartland and matching each grape to the soil that suited it best. This is his red blend: Syrah leading, with Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault filling in around it, fermented entirely whole-bunch and raised in a mix of big foudres, concrete and seasoned French oak - nothing that would leave a fingerprint. It's bottled with minimal intervention and then given a long rest before release, which is why it drinks so well right out of the gate. Perfumed, savory, and genuinely serious for what it is.