Preston is a farm that happens to make wine, not the other way around. Lou and Susan Preston bought a prune orchard in Dry Creek Valley in 1973 and turned it into one of Sonoma's quiet institutions — certified organic since 2002, with olive oil, sourdough and vegetables coming off the same land. The Sauvignon Blanc is entirely estate-grown and fermented with native yeast, which is why it tastes like a place rather than a formula: citrus oil and lemongrass, cut grass and wild herbs, and none of the aggressive tropical stuff. Restraint, from people who have nothing left to prove.