Cagnulari is one of Sardinia's great obscure native reds — a grape grown almost exclusively in a small zone around Alghero on the island's northwest coast, where it likely arrived during centuries of Aragonese rule. Poderi Parpinello farms it in the countryside around Alghero and bottles it as Kressia, a name that means 'cherry' in one of the local Sardinian dialects, which is exactly what it tastes like. Hand-harvested, fermented with about ten days of skin contact, the result is a medium-bodied red of real charm — fragrant, fresh, and unmistakably Sardinian. The kind of wine that rewards anyone willing to look past the usual suspects.