Pio Cesare has been a fixture of Alba since 1881 — one of the founding traditional houses of the Langhe, now in its fifth generation. The Barolos and Barberescos get the headlines, but Dolcetto is the grape Piedmontese growers drink themselves: a juicy, savory, distinctly local red built for the table. This one shows exactly what it should — fresh dark fruit, a brisk savory edge, soft tannins, the easy weight that makes a bottle disappear over dinner. The classic Piedmontese aperitivo-and-pasta red, from a house that knows the region as well as anyone.