Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey became a star for all kinds of reasons. PYCM, as he is universally known, was an early master of a style of white Burgundy that has since become very popular: less oak (thanks in part to larger barrels), no lees-stirring, slightly earlier picking, a touch more reductive. The aim was never the fat wines that were still popular when he was starting out, but rather wines that were chiseled and precise. Way back in 2008, Jancis Robinson wrote up PYCM under the headline 'Making Chassagne more like Riesling,' which captures it perfectly. This village-level Chassagne from old vines is one of the most accessible windows into his signature style — all the cut and tension, in a wine that drinks beautifully now.