Roussanne, but make it Alpine. In Savoie, Roussanne goes by the name Bergeron, and around the village of Chignin it finds one of its most distinctive expressions anywhere in France. Paul Gadenne farms a small parcel on steep, sun-warmed limestone slopes that look out over the mountains, and the wine that results is unmistakably Roussanne in fruit profile but cut with a cool, mineral nerve you don't find further south. There's pear and white flower and a touch of honeyed weight, but everything is held in check by Alpine freshness. A great introduction to one of France's most underrated whites.