Occhio di Sale means "eye of salt," named for a pocket of salt-rich, gypsum-bearing clay in Sicily's Platani Valley — and yes, you can taste the address. Giuseppe Cipolla planted his vines about a decade ago on family land in Contrada Passofonduto, roughly 25 kilometers inland from the ancient temples of Agrigento on Sicily's southern coast. This is Nero d'Avola, Inzolia and Nerello Mascalese, fermented spontaneously with a brief spell on the skins, farmed organically, made with the light touch you'd expect from a Louis/Dressner import. Calling it a rosé undersells it: it drinks like a very light red that happens to be refreshing, with dark berries, flowers and a saline snap on the finish. Chill it down, but not to death — give it twenty minutes out of the fridge and it opens right up.