Orvieto has a genuinely grand history as one of Italy's most celebrated white wines, and then decades of bulk production nearly erased the name entirely. The Dubini family has spent four decades quietly making the case for the other Orvieto. Angelo planted the vines; his sons Giovanni and Lodovico made the first small vintage in 1982 and built the winery in 1988, and Palazzone is now one of Umbria's reference points. Vignarco comes from their younger vineyard, a blend of Procanico and Grechetto with a splash of Verdello and Malvasia, organically farmed and made without fuss. It is fresh, lightly floral, faintly savory and built for a Tuesday. Sometimes the adventure is simply discovering that an overlooked region never actually stopped making good wine.