Faith Armstrong-Foster named her winery after the small boat that ferried her to school from a tiny island in British Columbia: Onward. The name suits her, because she has spent a career moving steadily toward wines with more restraint than California usually permits. Hawkeye Ranch, up in Mendocino's Redwood Valley, is her long-standing source, with gravelly loam farmed organically and certified Fish Friendly, and Pinot Noir vines planted in the 1970s to the Martini clone that nearly everyone else has torn out and replanted. What comes of it is old-school California Pinot: translucent, light on its feet, built on wild raspberry, forest floor and black tea rather than muscle. Silky tannins, natural acidity, no excess weight anywhere. If you think California Pinot has to be big, this bottle will politely disagree.