Roberto Conterno's rosé is one of Piedmont's worst-kept secrets, a rosato made from Nebbiolo in the historic Alto Piemonte zone of Gattinara. When the Conterno family (yes, those Conternos) took over the historic Nervi estate, Gattinara's oldest continuously operating winery, they revived not just the reds but this seriously delicious pink that fans line up for each summer. It's bone-dry, taut, and savory in a way most rosés can only dream of, with the spine and structure you'd expect from Nebbiolo. Drink it cold but not ice-cold, and treat it like a serious wine rather than a poolside afterthought.