Mount Eden Estate Chardonnay has a claim few wines in California can match: an unbroken lineage going back to the late 1940s, when Martin Ray propagated cuttings from Paul Masson's original Burgundian selection at 2,000 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The vines are planted in infertile Franciscan shale above the fog line, yielding small crops of intensely structured fruit. This is one of California's longest-lived white wines — a Chardonnay that drinks like a serious white Burgundy in its youth and ages for two decades or more. 2021 was a beautifully balanced cool-coastal vintage; expect this to keep getting better.