We don't drink enough sweet wines. They offer pleasures like no other wines — and Moulin Touchais is one of the world's great cases for the category. Sweet Chenin Blanc from the hills along the Layon river in the Loire, made by a family that's been at it since 1787 using a unique two-pass harvest method: a first pick of grapes still bursting with acid (for the wine's backbone and 50-100-year aging potential), then a later pick of fully ripe fruit (for the honey and apricot we crave in dessert wines). The family holds wines back for decades before release. This 2002 has crossed into its prime drinking window with many years still ahead — the kind of bottle that ends a long dinner the right way.