Alfonso Arpino was the local pediatrician in Tramonti, high in the Lattari Mountains above the Amalfi Coast, when he decided the ancient vines around him deserved better than to quietly disappear. Melogna — dialect for the badgers that den among the rows — is his everyday red, grown on volcanic soil between 400 and 600 meters, where warm days flip to cold nights. It's Piedirosso and Tintore plus a splash of nearly extinct locals like Olivella and Sciascinoso, fermented with native yeasts in steel and otherwise left alone. The result is light on its feet and savory-salty rather than heavy, the kind of red that rewards a slight chill. Organic, honest, and unlike almost anything else coming out of Campania.