Nobody asked Napa for a fortified Albarino. Mike and Molly Hendry made one anyway, and it's one of the more genuinely original bottles in the valley. They blended four vintages of Albarino grown on the Hendry Ranch in southwest Napa - ground the family has farmed since 1939 - and fortified it with brandy they distilled themselves from Zinfandel out of the old R.W. Moore vineyard. Which means the entire bottle, wine and spirit both, traces back to vines they farm with their own hands. It's deep gold, unapologetically sweet, and kept lively rather than syrupy by Albarino's naturally high acidity. Comes in a half bottle, which is exactly the right size for a wine this rich.