Some things never change, and that is the whole point here. For decades the brothers Alfred and Rolf Merkelbach made Riesling in a cellar barely bigger than a garage in Urzig, working their steep slate parcels by hand and bottling wines that felt like they'd arrived from another era. When they finally retired, the estate passed to the Selbach family just down the river, who kept the same cellar, the same old casks and the same stubbornly hands-off approach. So this is time travel you can drink. Urziger Wurzgarten - the spice garden of Urzig - is red volcanic slate, and it gives Riesling a smoky, exotic edge; Kabinett means the wine stays feather-light, low in alcohol, with just enough sweetness to balance the electric acidity.