At 13 years old, the 2012 Gold Reserve is the mature flagship of Massaya's Lebanese range, and it is drinking beautifully right now. This is the wine where Sami and Ramzi Ghosn's French partners, the Bruniers of Vieux Telegraphe and Dominique Hebrard of Cheval Blanc, lean into a Bordelais frame: half Cabernet Sauvignon, with Mourvedre and Syrah filling out the body, aged nine months in new French oak. Time in bottle has done its work. The fruit has turned from primary to dried and spiced, the oak has melted into the wine, and a layer of cedar, tobacco, and Lebanese spice has settled in. A rare chance to drink Bekaa Valley red at peak maturity.