This is the bottle Marques de Caceres makes when it wants to prove a point. Gaudium (Latin for joy) comes from tiny old-vine plots scattered across Rioja Alta and the high terraces of Rioja Alavesa, some vines over seventy years old and a few pre-phylloxera survivors past a century. Yields are brutal by design, under a kilo of fruit per plant, and the grapes are hand-picked in small boxes and sorted cluster by cluster before native-yeast fermentation in small steel, concrete and wood. Tempranillo leads, with a touch of Graciano. It's a big, layered, deliberately serious Rioja that rewards a decanter now and patience later.