Megan Bell's Margins project has spent a decade shining a light on the overlooked corners of California — odd grapes, small growers, places that don't fit a marketing story. This Vermentino comes from organically farmed Siletto Vineyard in San Benito County, where the Mediterranean grape finds the kind of bright-light, cool-night conditions it thrives in. Direct-pressed and aged briefly in neutral oak, it pours out salty and citric, the way good Vermentino should — like a Ligurian seaside lunch transposed to the Central Coast. With Margins winding down operations, every remaining bottle is worth grabbing.