Everyone chasing Sicily right now is looking at Etna. The insiders are looking at Vittoria. Down in the island's southeast, ancient limestone lies buried under bright red, iron-rich sand, and that combination throws off wines that are floral, lifted and shockingly bright rather than brooding and smoky. Guglielmo Manenti and his wife Marita farm four strictly organic hectares of bush vines in Contrada Bastonaca and work with no heavy extraction and no new oak. Their Cerasuolo, Sicily's only DOCG, is half Nero d'Avola for structure and half Frappato for lift, and it is the clearest argument they make. If you love Cru Beaujolais, this is your Sicilian wine.