Marty Winters and Alex Pitts of Maître de Chai — two ex-chefs (Cyrus, Quince, French Laundry) turned single-vineyard obsessives — go to Lodi for this Zin. Stampede is an own-rooted parcel up in the Clements Hills, planted in the 1920s on decomposed granite, farmed by the Perlegos family and overlooking, fittingly, the Clements Stampede rodeo. 2023 was a late-ripening year that yielded unusually small berries, and the wine is correspondingly dense — varietal Zin dialed up. Native yeast, a mix of open-top and barrel ferments with whole clusters, 16 months in cask, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Powerful but not jammy, with the bones to age.