Liguria barely makes enough wine to export, which is why almost nobody has tasted Rossese di Dolceacqua. The vineyards are steep, the plots are tiny, and most of what gets made is drunk on the spot by people on holiday on the Italian Riviera. Giovanna Maccario, working with her husband Goetz Dringenberg in San Biagio della Cima, is the reference point for the appellation. She farms four hectares in small parcels, each with its own terroir, and bottles them separately because she believes the differences matter. This one comes off vines planted in the late 1800s and ferments spontaneously in stainless steel: a perfumed, high-toned red with surprising tension, the Riviera's answer to a good cru Beaujolais.