Everyone in Oregon makes Pinot Noir. Matt Berson makes Gamay, and he makes it like someone with nothing to prove. Berson got pulled out of the restaurant grind in 2003 by what he calls a band of marauding Oregon winemakers, then went and worked harvests in New Zealand, Napa, Germany and Argentina before setting up his winery in an unglamorous corner of Portland. His approach is stubbornly hands-off: organic fruit from growers he's known for a decade, whole clusters, a partial carbonic ferment, eleven months in neutral barrels, and a small dose of sulfur as the only addition. It comes in light on its feet and low in alcohol, which is exactly the point. Chill it down and it disappears alarmingly fast.