Louise Brison is a family domaine in the Cote des Bar, the southernmost corner of Champagne where the soils run to Kimmeridgian marl and the wines drink with the depth of fine white Burgundy. Delphine Brulez carries on what her great-grandmother started, and every cuvee here is single-vintage, zero dosage, with no malolactic and a long stay on the lees. A l'Aube de la Cote des Bar is the flagship, a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay aged nine months in used barrels and then a minimum of five years on the lees before disgorgement. The 2018 is taut, deeply flavored, and astonishingly vibrant — a serious grower Champagne for the table.