Ryan Stirm thinks sparkling wine should be spritzy and refreshing rather than solemn, and Super Bueno is the argument. It's Sangiovese from the Gimelli Vineyard in the Cienega Valley, bush vines planted in 1960 on pure limestone, one of the strangest and most compelling patches of dirt in California. Rather than the Champagne method, the wine finishes its fermentation in the bottle, col fondo style, so it comes out cloudy, gently fizzy and alive. It's pink, it's a little wild, and it's unapologetically fun. Chill it hard and don't overthink it.