Lisini has been farming in Montalcino since the sixteenth century, which is roughly four hundred years before Brunello became fashionable. They were founding members of the Brunello consorzio in 1967, and Elina Lisini served as its first female president. Down in Sant'Angelo in Colle, the family still does it the old way: Sangiovese only, fermented in concrete, aged in big old Slavonian casks, with no barriques and no interest in acquiring any. The 2021 is cool-toned and fresh, all crushed violets and wild berry fruit over a mineral core, with sweet tannins that frame rather than clobber. This is Brunello for people who want elegance and lift, and it will drink well for decades.