Drive northeast from Lyon toward Switzerland and the hills keep rising until they are full-grown Alps. Halfway there sits Bugey, a mountain wine region that most of the world has never considered, which is precisely where Jeremy Decoster wanted to land after working for Chablis' Duplessis and Alice and Olivier de Moor. He and his wife Isabelle founded Les Cortis in 2016, farming biodynamically, working entirely by hand, making tiny quantities and keeping sulfur to a bare minimum. Teraxe blends Altesse, the great local white grape, with Chardonnay, and the result is taut and austere in the best sense, all mineral tension and alpine nerve. If you like your whites lean and electric, start here.