Pineau d'Aunis tastes like someone ground black pepper over a bowl of raspberries. It is one of the Loire's oldest and least-planted red grapes, grown there since the Middle Ages and still farmed by almost nobody, which is exactly why it is worth your attention. Les Athletes du Vin, the negociant project run by the Loire collective Vini Be Good, buys organically farmed fruit from grower friends and bottles this one light, bright and unfussy, with Michel Tolmer's artwork on the label. Give it a good chill and it becomes one of the best warm-weather reds going.