Ian Brand has spent a decade making the same argument: California's Central Coast is a far better home for Spanish and Rhone grapes than anyone gives it credit for. La Marea — "the tide" — is where he tests it, with wines rooted in sea air, sandy soils and ancient seabeds. His Grenache runs in the opposite direction from the jammy, high-alcohol version the grape usually gets here: light on its feet, transparent, built around freshness rather than force. Wild strawberry, red cherry and dried lavender with a flick of white pepper, tannins so soft they barely register, and juicy acidity that makes the bottle disappear faster than planned. Serve it with a slight chill.