Pinot Meunier used to be Champagne's third wheel. Jerome Prevost made sure that's no longer true. Mentored by Anselme Selosse, Prevost farms a 2.2-hectare parcel in Gueux, planted predominantly to Pinot Meunier (over 90%) with a small percentage of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay interspersed, in the Petite Montagne de Reims, where vines sit on chalk subsoil topped with darker, sandier surface soil. The wine is bottled with no dosage, no fining, no filtering - just Meunier, undressed and unfiltered, from a single site. LC13 encodes the 2013 base vintage. His Closerie Les Beguines is among the rarest unicorn Champagnes you can buy today. And for good reason: it's really, really delicious. Yellow orchard fruit, orange zest, toasted nuts, dried flowers - explosive complexity from a grape long dismissed by the big houses.