Three grapes nobody puts on a marquee: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, pulled from cool-climate North Coast sites and fermented lot by lot in a mix of neutral French oak and stainless steel before being assembled. That approach, separate ferments and then a blend, is more work than a single-variety white, and it shows up as texture. This has weight and grip, not just zip. Horse & Plow works exclusively with certified organic fruit and adds nothing that isn't grape, which keeps the wine clean without making it thin. Aromatic and dry, and considerably more interesting than the category usually manages.