Suzanne Hagins learned to make wine at Comte Armand in Pommard before she landed in Sebastopol, and she and Chris Condos have built Horse & Plow around a stubborn rule: buy only certified organic fruit, and add nothing to the wine that doesn't belong there. This Cabernet Franc comes from Bennett Valley, a cool, fog-prone pocket of Sonoma that keeps the grape's savory, herbal edge intact instead of cooking it into jam. It's the fuller, grippier side of Cab Franc, with dark fruit, real tannin and a streak of cherry acidity running down the middle. Decant it now, or leave it a few years and it'll round itself out.