For fifty years the Hendry family were growers, not vintners, quietly farming 203 acres in the Mayacamas foothills west of Napa and selling their fruit to wineries whose names you know a lot better than theirs. They finally started bottling their own in 1992. HRW is their more affordable Napa Valley line, and it is a rare thing now: an estate-grown Napa Cabernet from a family that owns the dirt, priced for people who actually drink Cabernet rather than store it. Dark cherry and plum, a little cedar and dried herb, silky tannins, ready to go tonight. Napa without the theater.