Romain Guiberteau, the Clos Rougeard-trained star of Saumur, draws Le Bourg from a single 1.07-hectare parcel just below Clos des Carmes on the hill of Brezé. The vines were planted in the early 1940s on sandy clay over soft limestone; the wine is organic, ambient-yeast fermented and aged about a year in used barrels, with malolactic blocked. It's the old-vine sibling to the Carmes, a touch more open and aromatic but every bit as serious. The 2023 is generous and saline with all the structure you'd want from this address. Drink with great food now or hold a few years.