Ask an Oregon grower what makes Dundee Hills Pinot taste the way it does and they will point straight at the dirt: red volcanic basalt, iron-rich and free-draining. That rock is the whole idea behind this bottling. Jackson and Ayla Holstein started Granville in 2014, farming organically across the Dundee Hills and Eola-Amity Hills, including the family vineyard Jackson grew up on, first planted back in 1972. Roughly a fifth of the fruit goes in as whole clusters and the wine rests in mostly neutral French oak, so there is nothing loud here, no makeup. Light on its feet, savory and transparent, this is Willamette Pinot in its most honest register, and a lot of wine for the money.