Barolo's grape, Barolo's family, Barolo's cellar -- without Barolo's waiting period. Davide Rosso draws this Langhe Nebbiolo from an older Serralunga parcel, ferments it slowly in concrete with native yeasts, and ages it in 50-hectoliter French oak casks so the fruit stays out front instead of getting buried under wood. Freed from the three-year aging requirement that governs Barolo, it arrives young and open, with Nebbiolo's unmistakable signature -- rose petal, tart red cherry, a fine dusting of tannin -- in a frame light enough for a weeknight. It isn't trying to be Barolo, and that honesty is the point. One of the most reliable ways to learn what this grape actually tastes like.