In Serralunga d'Alba, Nebbiolo gets the glory and the best slopes. Barbera gets what's left over -- which is exactly why it's the bottle the growers themselves open on a Tuesday. The Rosso family has farmed these hills since 1890, and Davide Rosso, who did postgraduate work in Burgundy before taking over the estate, brings the same care to this wine that he brings to the Barolo: organic farming, spontaneous fermentation in concrete, aging in big French oak casks that lend shape without slathering on new-oak makeup. Barbera's whole trick is that it delivers dark, generous fruit with almost no tannic grip and a bolt of acidity underneath, which makes it one of the most food-flexible reds in Italy. No pretense here, and none needed.