Possibly the most underrated of the truly great Beaujolais producers, Georges Descombes is an unofficial fifth member of the Gang of Four around Marcel Lapierre. His Morgon is sumptuous and refined - the cru's classic dark-fruited depth, given lift and transparency by traditional semi-carbonic fermentation, ambient yeasts, and only a whisper of sulfur for stability. Organic farming, natural wines really. Drink now or stash for a decade.