Montee de Tonnerre sits right across the valley from the Grand Crus, and many drinkers consider it the most Grand Cru-like of all the Chablis 1ers. Cyril Gautheron, seventh-generation vigneron in the tiny village of Fleys, farms his old-school domaine with low yields and an emphasis on transparent terroir. Half the juice ferments in a 10HL cement egg with lees in constant motion; the other half in barrel. The result is intense and saline, with the kind of chiseled mineral cut that makes you understand why people get obsessed with this appellation.