From the producer who dragged Piedmont into the modern era. Angelo Gaja (born 1940) took over from his father in 1970 and revolutionized Italian winemaking—introducing single-vineyard bottlings, French oak, and premium pricing to a region that had been selling Barolo by the demijohn. Costa Russi is a 4.35-hectare southwest-facing vineyard on clayey-calcareous marl at 230 meters elevation. The 2021 Piedmont vintage—described as outstanding to potentially profound—produced wines of exceptional fragrance and elegance. Now run by daughters Gaia and Rossana and son Giovanni.