Montigny-les-Arsures is a village of a few hundred people, and it happens to be the world capital of Trousseau — a grape grown almost nowhere else and adored by everyone who stumbles onto it. Fumey-Chatelain is based right there, and this comes from their oldest vines on clay and limestone. Half the bunches go in whole, there are no punch-downs, and the wine ages in steel rather than oak, so nothing gets in the way of the fruit. Trousseau's trick is that it looks light and tastes serious: bright ruby in the glass, black cherry and crushed strawberry on the palate, a cool menthol lift and a stony, earthy undertow. This is the Jura red that converts people.