Savagnin is the Jura's signature white, and most people meet it in its oxidative form: aged for years under a veil of yeast until it tastes like sherry's country cousin. This is the other Savagnin. Ouille means topped up — the barrels are kept full, no veil ever forms, and the grape shows its raw, unmediated self, which turns out to be electric. Fumey-Chatelain grows it on marl soils and ages it a year and a half in barrel, and it arrives with a blade of acidity, a serious streak of salt, and notes of acacia flower and bitter almond. If you love Chablis, or dry German Riesling, or anything with a spine, this is your bottle.