The Jura sits on the same limestone spine as Burgundy and Champagne, and it makes its sparkling wine exactly the same way — second fermentation in the bottle, a long rest on the lees — but almost nobody outside France has caught on. Fumey-Chatelain's Cremant is Chardonnay, gently pressed for free-run juice, fermented with wild yeasts and left on its lees for a year and more to build texture. The bead is fine and persistent, the fruit is crisp, and there's a briny, bready depth underneath that most everyday bubbles never get near. It drinks like a serious aperitif rather than a novelty. Keep one cold at all times.