Here's the Jura's great magic trick. Fill a barrel with Savagnin, then refuse to top it up: a film of yeast grows across the surface, and there it stays. The wine doesn't spoil — it transforms, picking up walnut, green apple, curry spice and an intensity that lands somewhere between white wine and fino sherry while staying bone dry. Fumey-Chatelain's version comes from marl soils in Arbois and spends three years under that veil in barrel. It is not a crowd-pleaser and it isn't trying to be; it's a wine that rearranges what you thought white wine could do. Open it with hard cheese, pour small glasses, and don't rush.