Marin Fumey calls this a barbecue wine, which tells you most of what you need to know. Ploussard — Poulsard, if you're reading a textbook — makes the palest red in France, so translucent you can nearly read through the glass, and yet it carries enough savory grip to stand up to char and smoke. Fertans is a south-facing plot of seventy-year-old vines, hand-destemmed out in the vineyard the old-fashioned way and made with barely any extraction at all. At 12.5% alcohol it's the kind of red you can drink straight through an afternoon without losing the thread. Chill it down and put it next to something off the grill.