Burgundy is barely an hour west, and the Jura has been growing Pinot Noir for about as long as anyone can remember — it's just that nobody outside France thinks to look here for it. Aux Melinaux comes from a single Arbois parcel planted in 2002, on clay studded with fossilized oyster shells. Marin Fumey works it the gentle way: whole clusters, a slow three-week infusion, a year in barrel, very little poking and prodding. The result is silky and savory, with red fruit that feels lit from within rather than squeezed out. It has Burgundy's shape with a wilder, stonier accent, and it rewards an hour in a decanter.