The Jura makes Chardonnay unlike anywhere else in France, and this is the bottle that proves it. Fumey-Chatelain farms in Montigny-les-Arsures, on land that abuts Domaine du Pelican — the Jura estate founded in 2012 by Burgundy's Marquis d'Angerville, which took over Jacques Puffeney's vineyards when the godfather of the Jura retired in 2014. That's the neighborhood. The Chardonnay grows on clay and limestone, ferments with native yeasts and spends a year and a half in barrel, topped up throughout so it stays taut and precise instead of turning oxidative. Where a Burgundy would give you richness, this gives you tension, white flowers and a saline snap. Chardonnay drinkers who think they know the grape should meet this one.