Schiava is the great alpine bargain nobody talks about: a red so light and cheerful you'll want it cold, yet with enough soil underneath to make you pay attention. Franz Gojer farms the Gloegglhof, a hill just north of Bolzano that sits in the heart of Santa Maddalena — the closest thing Schiava has to a grand cru. Vigna Rondell is his best parcel and his oldest vines, mostly Schiava with a splash of Lagrein for grip, and it lands somewhere near Pinot Noir territory: perfumed, silky, more elegant than a wine this easy has any right to be. The warm Bolzano amphitheater does the heavy lifting — warm days, cold nights, poor soil, everything picked by hand. Give it twenty minutes in the fridge and it goes with almost anything.